What are basics? When talking about menswear, they are timeless pieces of clothing designed to match any other item in your wardrobe. They all go together, and you cannot (unless intentionally) make mistakes mixing them.
Basics are the fundamentals you need when you want to start your stylistic evolution. Just like a painter begins with a blank canvas before creating a masterpiece, you need a set of basic wardrobe pieces as your foundation to compose great outfits.
(If you keep reading this blog)
If you haven’t heard of the Pareto Principle, also called the 80/20 rule, let me explain it to you. Applied here, it means we wear 20% of our clothes 80% of the time. Why is that? Maybe some clothes no longer appeal to you or they just don’t match the rest of your clothing collection. So why do we need the other 80%? I am not suggesting you throw everything away in your wardrobe, but consider how ideal it would be if you could wear 100% of your clothes 100% of the time.
I believe that by building a solid dressing inventory composed of basics, you can achieve that goal while avoiding unnecessary pieces that don’t coordinate with the rest.
Before jumping in and buying any statement piece of clothing (a piece that stands out like a bold jacket with a strong color), make sure you can pair it with other items to create a cohesive and amazing outfit.
White T-shirts
You should have 2 or 3 white t-shirts in your closet. Usually made of cotton — but any natural fabric will do, really. Just avoid synthetic like polyester. These pieces are perfect as base layers and will allow you to build amazing outfits without making mistakes. Choose thicker ones if you plan to wear them alone or thinner ones if you wear them over a shirt or if it’s too warm.
How to choose:
- Natural Fabric
- Round Collar
- Not too tight, unless you are Steve McQueen or Marlon Brando
- Not too long
A Formal Shirt
A Formal shirt will elevate your elegance and basically step up your style. Opting for it will ensure you appear more chic than when wearing a simple t-shirt. However you don’t have to wear them only with suits, they pair with jeans or chinos exceptionally well, adding a refined touch to your casual look. A piece of advice though, to pair it well with jeans and chinos I recommend you choose a cotton fabric with a little texture such as oxford or twill. Avoid overly plain fabrics, as they will not go well with the ruggedness of a jean for example.
This type of shirt is longer than its casual counterpart and is made to be tucked into trousers. No exception. Especially if you’re wearing a sport jacker or a suit.
It’s not. Don’t ever do that
How to choose:
- White or blue
- Cotton oxford or twill
- Generous, stiff collar
- Fitted but not too much
- Long enough to be tucked into pants
Below is a perfect example of a good shirt with a clean cut, a nice cutaway collar and a beautiful, thick oxford fabric.
A Casual Shirt
The casual version of the shirt is, as its name suggests, made for more casual outfits. It’s generally less fitted and shorter than its formal counterpart and can be worn tucked in pants, tucked out, buttoned, unbuttoned (over a t-shirt please), whatever floats your boat really. Prefer an even more textured fabric for this one. A cotton flannel could be a perfect choice here.
Check the picture below to see how a casual shirt can be worn open over a white t-shirt, itself tucked in a pair of jeans. Basically this whole article illustrated:
A Crew Neck Sweater
Simple to keep you warm because, well, you can’t just go around in shirts all year round, especially in this part of Europe.
You can pick any color just not too vibrant to start with (Avoid flashy red or yellow for now). Also Avoid black: we’ll talk about how that non-color can be tricky to wear as opposed to the common belief. Wear it on top of t-shirt, preferably avoid wearing it over a shirt as that can give a stiff / stuffy / constrained appearance. Can be in cotton but will not keep you as warm.
Sage Green Sweater in Merino Wool – Hast
How to choose:
- Natural fabric, as always. Wool preferrably
- Any natural color, no too vibrant
- Round collar
Raw Denim Jeans
Not a lot of people can say they don’t have a pair of jeans in their wardrobe, and there is a reason for that. For several decades, they have been the de facto pair of pants for everyone. Made famous by American movie stars and synonymous with the brand Levi’s,, modern jeans have become an iconic garment. The fabric used to make them is called denim: a cotton twill weave soaked in indigo, the famous blue dye that gives jeans their distinctive color.
They are such a timeless piece because they go with everything, from t-shirt and shirts to sport jackets and hoodies, you name it!
I recommend raw denim, which means the fabric has not been washed and retains its pure indigo blue color. Raw denim is simply more versatile than its washed version, which can appear a little more casual. We’ll discuss the formality scale in another article.
How to choose:
- Raw denim
- mid or high rise
- Avoid skinny / slim fits at all cost
- For the length, the bottom of the jeans should hover over the shoe
(Livid Jeans)
A Camel Chino
Like many garments, chinos originated from the British army in India, who needed a more suitable uniform for the hot and humid climate of Colonial India.
It is a really good alternative to jeans as chinos can be worn with practically everything. Made of cotton, they can come in many colors but the most versatile one, if you had to choose only one, would be camel. It is a great base for building an outfit, and with that color, it is impossible to go wrong. The thing to watch out for is that it is not too tight: A bit of volume is appreciated for that piece.
Notice how the leg is not tight in the chino. A generous leg opening is preferrable
(Chino NN07)
A Pair of Derbies
Moving down the list, let’s talk about footwear. Any man should own a pair of dress shoes, simply because they add an elegant touch to your outfit and elevate the rest of your attire perfectly. Give them a try, and you will see how much they can bring to your style compared to sneakers.
Opt for derbies or even brogues over oxford shoes for added versatility: oxford shoes tend to be too formal to be worn with anything else than a suit.
Again, as we strive to build a solid foundation for our wardrobe, brown shoes are preferred over black shoes, but honestly this ultimately depends on personal preference. Let’s forget the old saying: “no brow in town”.
I must emphasize that dress footwear is not an area where you should try to cut costs. Cheap pairs will immediately stand out, and unlike other clothing items, shoes are unforgiving. Not to worry! A quality pair of dress shoes can be a companion for decades if you treat them well! Consider it as an investment.
Just take a look at these beauties
(La Derby – Morjas)
A Pair of White Sneakers
Although dress shoes should your best friends, there are times when you need to take long walks in the city and you want to be extra comfortable. Of course sneakers will be an ally of choice in those situations. I have no doubt you already own several pairs, but let me tell you, white sneakers are the most versatile item you will find in your wardrobe. Once again, you can wear them with almost anything you can imagine. (Heated debate but one might even say they’re ok with a suit. Let’s discuss that some other time).
You can opt for either leather or cotton canvas sneakers, depending on the temperature or your mood. If you’re starting out, not too deep into streetwear and seeking versatility, choose refined shoes with minimal details.
On a side note: notice how many of the items presented on this list are white? there is a reason for it: it goes with every other color! It’s the Same reason you don’t find any black items here, except for shoes.
Another important thing to add: shoes are the key items that dictate the direction of your outfit. Do you want a more dressed-up look over a more casual outfit? Simply switch your sneakers with dress shoes and you’re all set.
A Jacket
Many choices here: A bomber, work jacket, even varsity jacket. The jacket is meant to keep you warn and cut wind when it’s not too cold outside. The jack of all trades of clothing, in my opinion. It is not suitable however for the coldest months of the year. This is an excellent place to start if you want to get creative and look for pieces with a little extra character by the way.
You can wear it with every other item that we have seen above in the list. That’s the beauty of basics. Magical, isn’t it?
Here is one of my favorite pieces of my wardrobe, one which has brought me many compliments over the years:
A Coat
Because sometimes it’s cold outside (duh) you will need a coat. Nothing new under the sun.
The tricky part is how to get one that you can integrate easily with the rest of your wardrobe. Here are two suggestions, that, in my opinion are excellent starter in a casual chic outfit
The Peacoat (also called Caban)
Guess the origin of the peacoat? That’s right it was adopted by the Royal Navy during the 18th century. Well actually its origins could actually starts in the 15th century but you get the point. A big part of mens clothing finds its origin in the military.
This piece is a perfect blend between workwear, casual and formal styles and is really easy to wear if you pick it in its original navy color. It is shorter than other types of coats, which makes it even easier to integrate in your outfit. You can wear it on top of a t-shirt, shirt or even sweater of course!
I guarantee you, the only thing you’ll think about when wearing that piece, will be to set sails and look for new undiscovered lands far away from here.
The fabric should be wool only. As always avoid synthetic fabrics like polyester, which present only disadvantages and are only used by brands to cut costs.
(Galion Peacoat – Saint James)
The Parka
You can find many different types of Parka but let’s keep things simple for now. You need something to keep you warm and dry. It should have a breathable membrane (Gore-tex is one example), sufficient insulation and a hood.
One thing to keep in mind is that when temperatures get extremes it becomes harder to maintain stylish outfits, as revealed by this highly accurate scientific line graph:
Although we need to prioritize the technical specifications of the Parka (warmth, waterproofness, wind resistance, breathability…), it is not impossible to find beautiful pieces. However, especially for this kind of technical garment, the more elaborate the design, the more pricey it will be. Just prefer natural colors like navy, khaki or beige, with nice and practical details like pockets. The length should around be mid-thigh.
Clint Parka – Urban Pioneers
Conclusion
It is essential to remember that menswear is not a science but rather an art form. As such there are no rigid rules, only recommended guidelines. However, while those rules (or guidelines) can be disregarded, it is crucial to understand them thoroughly before deviating from them. As the saying goes, « Only the one who masters can play ».
Here are some general pieces of advice related to menswear, serving as a foundation for crafting your personal style:
- Prefer natural fabrics
- Prefer natural colors
- Know your size
- Prefer quality over quantity
But most importantly, enjoy yourself and don’t overthink it! We’ll talk about the concept of Sprezzatura in a next article, which is one of the core concepts when it comes to menswear.
Embrace those principles, adapt them to your individual taste and develop one day your own style, a true reflection of your personality. In doing so, you can contribute to making the world a more aesthetically pleasing place.
“Our journey is short. Let’s try to do it first class.”
-Philippe Noiret